Have you ever had a client wanting to go from light blonde to a rich brunette and noticed the colour doesn’t hold quite right? That's because when we lighten hair, we remove essential pigments that need to be replaced when going back darker. Let’s talk about how to restore those pigments, ensuring even, rich colour results for your clients.
Analogy:Think of hair colour as a wall. When you lighten the hair (or strip colour from the wall), you’re removing several layers of paint—like peeling wallpaper. If you want to repaint the wall a deep colour, you can't just throw on a dark shade. You'll need to re-prime it with the right base layers, ensuring the new colour is even and vivid.
Similarly, when we lighten hair, we remove layers of pigment, and to deepen the colour again, we must "re-prime" the hair by filling it with the missing tones. The key is using the correct base tones (fillers) to ensure the darker shade is vibrant and balanced.
Formulation 1:Transition from Level 10 to Level 6
Missing pigment: Orange
Filler: Apply a mix of Level 8 Gold and Level 7 Copper-Gold to your Level 6 formulation. These lighter pigments won’t lift the hair but will ensure a soft, balanced foundation, helping avoid a muddy or over-darkened result.
Formulation 2:Transition from Level 9 to Level 5
Missing pigment: Red-Orange
Filler: Pre-fill with a mix of Level 7 Copper-Gold and Level 6 Red-Gold. This ensures the rich tones are replenished before applying your desired Level 5 shade. Without this, the colour could appear dull or faded.
Formulation 3:Transition from Level 8 to Level 4
Missing pigment: Red
Filler: Apply Level 6 Copper and Level 5 Red. This combination restores vibrancy without over saturating or darkening the target Level 4. You’ll achieve an even, natural result without overfilling.
Conclusion:Filling pigment when darkening hair is a crucial step many overlook. Without this, the hair can appear flat, uneven, or overly dark. By selecting the right fillers, you ensure the deeper shades are vibrant, rich, and true to your desired outcome.
Niki @ Deva Hair Academy
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